Tank size: Because axolotls are bottom dwellers it is important they have more surface area rather than large water volume. The minimum tank size is 60cm x 30cm x 30cm for one adult axolotl. The general rule of thumb for adding more axolotl is to add one foot in length per adult axolotl added. Another way to increase surface area in a smaller tank is to create layers such as shelves. These create a good hide underneath and more surface area for axolotl to explore and get away from each other when they want.
Decorations: It is important to put at least one hide per axolotl in the tank. Hides can consist of ceramic plant pots, tunnels, caves, etc. Another effective and useful decoration to add is live, hardy cold water plants. The plants will provide another kind of hide for your axolotl and aid in keeping your nitrates low and at a safe level. Plants are also great for breeding as axolotl lay their eggs on plants and the plants can easily be removed to separate the eggs. Many other fish-safe decorations that are pleasing to the eye can be added to your tank. Be careful when choosing decorations that there are no sharp edges that could scratch or cut your axolotl. As they have very soft silky skin it is very easy for damage to occur on rough edges. Get a file and smooth over any rough or sharp edges before putting in your tank.
Substrate: Bare bottom tanks are fine for axolotl but you can also add a substrate that is pleasing on the eyes and to aid planting live plants. However not all substrates are safe so be careful in choosing your substrate. Never use gravel or pebbles as this can be ingested when axolotl eat and cause impaction and death. Sand is a good substrate to use and plants love getting their roots into it. I personally recommend very fine silica sand as it is very soft to touch (great for the silky soft bellies) however play sand is a good cheap alternative. Be sure to thoroughly wash all sand before use and when using play sand sift it through to remove any larger particles. Another suitable substrate is large river stones. When picking river stones make sure the there are none smaller than the axolotls head. Other more permanent options include siliconing slate to the bottom of your tank or using artificial grass/Astroturf. Both options look great in a tank, are axolotl safe, and are easy maintenance options. For more substrate ideas visit caudata.org.
Water quality: Water quality is an important part of keeping axolotl. It is important to test your water regularly and do small partial water changes weekly, or if you have live plants, every other week. In a fully cycled and established tank water levels should be: Ammonia – 0, Nitrite – 0, Nitrate - <40, and pH between 7-8 (7.5 is ideal). A handy tip for keeping water healthy is to do daily spot checks with a turkey baster. Use the turkey baster to suck up and remove poop or any uneaten food. This will help keep the water clean and the ammonia from reaching unsafe levels. For excellent information on what cycling a tank means, and two methods on completing cycling, visit: http://www.caudata.org/cc/articles/cyclingEDK.shtml
Temperature: Axolotl are cold water amphibians. They can survive in temperatures as cold as 5° Celsius but shouldn’t get warmer than 20° Celsius. Above 20° Celsius they become stressed and health issues start to occur. Signs of heat stress include, but are not limited to, white patches on their skin and the very tip of their tail curled or bent in a 90° angle. Methods of keeping tanks cool include fans faced at the water surface, ice bottles (can be a difficult method to keep a tank cool without large temp fluctuations) a tank chiller, putting tanks in low cold rooms or on the floor (heat rises), wrapping the tank in cold wet towels, etc. It is also important that the temperature doesn’t change too fast. No more than a couple degrees over a couple of hours or it can stress your axolotl out.
Water flow/filtration: Axolotl require slow water flow or next to no current. Too much water flow creates stress. The primary sign of stress due to water flow is forward-turned gills and the tail tip curled. For this reason it is important to choose filters that don’t have high water output. An ideal filter for axolotl is a canister filter as you can attach a spray bar which disperses the water well to achieve next to no current. With other filters you can use ornaments to intercept the current and therefore lower the flow and prevent your axolotl getting stressed.
Food: A great diet is earthworms. They hold all the nutritional value that adult axolotl need. A worm farm is a great way to have free food for your axolotl and be sure it is pesticide/chemical free. If you collect worms from your garden it important you know they are chemical free so they don’t harm your axolotl. An alternative diet is axolotl specific pellets or sinking shrimp pellets. You can also supplement diets with many things to change it up and keep it interesting for your axolotl. These include: feeder fish (quarantine for 30 days to ensure they are disease free or breed your own), raw, washed prawns/shrimp, bloodworms, waxworms, blanched chicken strips, crickets, slaters, decapitated meal worms, raw steak, etc. When axolotl are young they should be feed daily to support their growth. As your axolotl matures into an adult you can ease off on the frequency of feeding. Adults only need to feed three or four times a week and can even occasionally go a week without food if you are away on holiday.
Breeding: If you plan on breeding your axolotl it is important you wait till they are at least 18 months old. Breeding can be very stressful on the axolotl body, especially the female, as they can lay hundreds of eggs in one go. If you breed your axolotl too soon or too much it can significantly shorten the life of your axolotl. Once your axolotl has bred, separate the eggs into a separate tank for hatching and raising, and divide your males from your females. This gives the female a chance to recuperate after the laying process and gain weight and strength. Make sure you feed your female well during this period.
For more information on any of the above topics please visit http://www.caudata.org/ or http://www.axolotl.org/.
If your axolotl falls ill, shows signs of stress, or if you have any general questions please do not hesitate to contact us. Our support is ongoing.
Decorations: It is important to put at least one hide per axolotl in the tank. Hides can consist of ceramic plant pots, tunnels, caves, etc. Another effective and useful decoration to add is live, hardy cold water plants. The plants will provide another kind of hide for your axolotl and aid in keeping your nitrates low and at a safe level. Plants are also great for breeding as axolotl lay their eggs on plants and the plants can easily be removed to separate the eggs. Many other fish-safe decorations that are pleasing to the eye can be added to your tank. Be careful when choosing decorations that there are no sharp edges that could scratch or cut your axolotl. As they have very soft silky skin it is very easy for damage to occur on rough edges. Get a file and smooth over any rough or sharp edges before putting in your tank.
Substrate: Bare bottom tanks are fine for axolotl but you can also add a substrate that is pleasing on the eyes and to aid planting live plants. However not all substrates are safe so be careful in choosing your substrate. Never use gravel or pebbles as this can be ingested when axolotl eat and cause impaction and death. Sand is a good substrate to use and plants love getting their roots into it. I personally recommend very fine silica sand as it is very soft to touch (great for the silky soft bellies) however play sand is a good cheap alternative. Be sure to thoroughly wash all sand before use and when using play sand sift it through to remove any larger particles. Another suitable substrate is large river stones. When picking river stones make sure the there are none smaller than the axolotls head. Other more permanent options include siliconing slate to the bottom of your tank or using artificial grass/Astroturf. Both options look great in a tank, are axolotl safe, and are easy maintenance options. For more substrate ideas visit caudata.org.
Water quality: Water quality is an important part of keeping axolotl. It is important to test your water regularly and do small partial water changes weekly, or if you have live plants, every other week. In a fully cycled and established tank water levels should be: Ammonia – 0, Nitrite – 0, Nitrate - <40, and pH between 7-8 (7.5 is ideal). A handy tip for keeping water healthy is to do daily spot checks with a turkey baster. Use the turkey baster to suck up and remove poop or any uneaten food. This will help keep the water clean and the ammonia from reaching unsafe levels. For excellent information on what cycling a tank means, and two methods on completing cycling, visit: http://www.caudata.org/cc/articles/cyclingEDK.shtml
Temperature: Axolotl are cold water amphibians. They can survive in temperatures as cold as 5° Celsius but shouldn’t get warmer than 20° Celsius. Above 20° Celsius they become stressed and health issues start to occur. Signs of heat stress include, but are not limited to, white patches on their skin and the very tip of their tail curled or bent in a 90° angle. Methods of keeping tanks cool include fans faced at the water surface, ice bottles (can be a difficult method to keep a tank cool without large temp fluctuations) a tank chiller, putting tanks in low cold rooms or on the floor (heat rises), wrapping the tank in cold wet towels, etc. It is also important that the temperature doesn’t change too fast. No more than a couple degrees over a couple of hours or it can stress your axolotl out.
Water flow/filtration: Axolotl require slow water flow or next to no current. Too much water flow creates stress. The primary sign of stress due to water flow is forward-turned gills and the tail tip curled. For this reason it is important to choose filters that don’t have high water output. An ideal filter for axolotl is a canister filter as you can attach a spray bar which disperses the water well to achieve next to no current. With other filters you can use ornaments to intercept the current and therefore lower the flow and prevent your axolotl getting stressed.
Food: A great diet is earthworms. They hold all the nutritional value that adult axolotl need. A worm farm is a great way to have free food for your axolotl and be sure it is pesticide/chemical free. If you collect worms from your garden it important you know they are chemical free so they don’t harm your axolotl. An alternative diet is axolotl specific pellets or sinking shrimp pellets. You can also supplement diets with many things to change it up and keep it interesting for your axolotl. These include: feeder fish (quarantine for 30 days to ensure they are disease free or breed your own), raw, washed prawns/shrimp, bloodworms, waxworms, blanched chicken strips, crickets, slaters, decapitated meal worms, raw steak, etc. When axolotl are young they should be feed daily to support their growth. As your axolotl matures into an adult you can ease off on the frequency of feeding. Adults only need to feed three or four times a week and can even occasionally go a week without food if you are away on holiday.
Breeding: If you plan on breeding your axolotl it is important you wait till they are at least 18 months old. Breeding can be very stressful on the axolotl body, especially the female, as they can lay hundreds of eggs in one go. If you breed your axolotl too soon or too much it can significantly shorten the life of your axolotl. Once your axolotl has bred, separate the eggs into a separate tank for hatching and raising, and divide your males from your females. This gives the female a chance to recuperate after the laying process and gain weight and strength. Make sure you feed your female well during this period.
For more information on any of the above topics please visit http://www.caudata.org/ or http://www.axolotl.org/.
If your axolotl falls ill, shows signs of stress, or if you have any general questions please do not hesitate to contact us. Our support is ongoing.